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Zeta Belay Jacket

Zeta Belay Jacket
Zeta Belay JacketZeta Belay Jacket with hood downZeta Belay Jacket showing rear clip loopZeta Belay Jacket, hood detailZeta Belay Jacket cuff detailZeta Belay Jacket, pocket detailZeta Belay JacketZeta Belay JacketZeta Belay JacketZeta Belay Jacket

Perhaps the best belay jacket on the market ... close to perfect.
Andy Kirkpatrick.

Zeta Belay Jacket

Our warmest synthetic-insulated belay jacket. For wet, cold climbs and summit blizzards. Perfect for Alpine winter, Patagonian, and Alaskan conditions.
Typical Operating Temp:-20°C (-4°F)
Weight:820g (29oz)
Price:£345.00

Available Options:

Size:
Colour:

Features

  • Primaloft Gold® synthetic insulation (200grm/m in the body & 133grm/m sleeves)
  • Waterproof / Breathable HS2 outer fabric*
  • Breathable ripstop superlight MX inner fabric
  • Integral hood with wired peak, sized for a modern climber's helmet
  • Shoulder seams taped*****
  • Front closure: short zip + baffle with wide easy-hit Velcro
  • Insulated storm baffle with stud at bottom
  • 4 pockets
    • 2 zipped handwarmer pockets above harness level
    • 1 internal zipped security pocket with key hook
    • 1 internal zipped poacher's pocket for mitts
  • Reflector tape on front and back for night location
  • Clip loop to secure jacket at change-overs
  • Double exit adjustable hem cord
  • Side Stitched for maximum loft
  • Cuffs; simple Velcro closure
  • Beard flap
  • Stuff sac
  • Pack size 17 x 28cm**

 

*Please note: Please note: although the outer fabric is waterproof, only the shoulder stitch lines are taped. So, although the outer will shed a lot of rain and snow, in a heavy downpour water can penetrate the stitching. However, the Primaloft insulation retains much of its insulation if wet. As always in the mountains, if there is a possibility of prolonged rain, carry full specification waterproofs.

**Please note: We make our stuff sacs big enough to allow fairly easy stuffing rather than reducing the jacket to the tightest minimum.

Description

The new Zeta Jacket is better and warmer than ever. Integral hood, more accessible pockets, and the soft warmth of Primaloft Gold®. But the original wide cut and user-friendly features are still there, marking it out as one of the only true mountain belay jackets available. For Alpine winter routes, Patagonia, Alaska, make no mistake, this is the jacket you want with you when conditions get rough.

With thick 200grm/m Primaloft Gold® insulation, this jacket gives reassuring protection in shocking conditions. In our experience Primaloft Gold® absorbs water much more slowly than other waddings, a marked advantage in wet-cold conditions. The Zeta belay can be worn all day over a fleece layer or equally be used over a hardshell jacket. The Zeta Belay Jacket could be used to provide additional warmth between cold belays by swapping between climbers at pitch change-overs.

The Alpha is a lighter version of this jacket, for temperatures around -10°C.

Please note: this jacket is designed and sized to be worn over top / outer layers. It provides additional warmth on cold belays and, typically, is swapped between climbers at pitch change-overs.

As used by Ian Parnell and Andy Kirkpatrick.

Technical

Superlight MX fabric (weight: 32 gsm)

A mini-ripstop nylon with excellent tear strength, MX is the pick of the superfine 15 denier downproof materials. We have tested lighter fabrics, but most have had significant drawbacks, while our confidence in MX is based on several years of extensive use in both our ultralight and our high mountain gear. Order samples of this fabric & just pay the postage.

Primaloft Gold®

Primaloft Gold® is the ideal microfibre insulation. Ultrafine fibres produce an insulating core that is incredibly soft, lightweight and water resistant. In our experience it absorbs water much more slowly than other waddings, a marked advantage in wet-cold conditions.

The nearest of the synthetics to the feel of down, yet tougher than you would expect. Primaloft Gold® offers the best warmth/weight performance in the Primaloft range

Waterproof HS2 outer fabric (weight: 88 gsm)

HS2 is PHD's high-spec 2-layer ripstop for waterproof outers on our down. It is light enough to be the optional taped shell on our sleeping bags and tough enough for expedition use in our Omega clothing. HS2 is completely waterproof (when the seams are taped) and offers excellent breathability. Order samples of this fabric & just pay the postage.

Sizing

Standard clothing sizing chart

Weight shown is for medium (M) size.

The PHD Sizing Chart below is based on measurements without clothing, exactly the way you would buy a shirt, a sweater or a pair of trousers. A 42" (107cm) chest means that your bare chest uninflated measures 42". Inside Arm is measured from armpit to wrist-bone and Inside Leg from crutch to ankle bone. If you find that you fall between (or across) these sizings, please contact us and we will quote you for modifications needed. Modifications cannot be made to sale items, bargain box items or other products not offered at full price. And if you are supplying us with your measurements, it is always useful for us to know your height, even when you are only buying a jacket.

Size Height Chest Waist Inside arm Inside leg
XS 155-163cm
(5'1"–5'4")
86cm
(34")
71cm
(28")
46cm
(18")
69cm
(27")
S 164-170cm
(5'5"–5'7")
91cm
(36")
76cm
(30")
48cm
(19")
72cm
(28.5")
M 171-178cm
(5'7"–5'10")
99cm
(39")
84cm
(33")
51cm
(20")
76cm
(30")
L 179-186cm
(5'10"–6'1")
107cm
(42")
91cm
(36")
53cm
(21")
80cm
(31.5")
XL 187-193cm
(6'2"–6'4")
114cm
(45")
99cm
(39")
56cm
(22")
84cm
(33")
XXL 194-201cm
(6'4"–6'7")
122cm
(48")
107cm
(42")
58cm
(23")
88cm
(34.5")
XXXL 202-209cm
(6'8"–6'10")
130cm
(51")
114cm
(45")
61cm
(24")
91cm
(36")

N.B. PHD clothing is unisex and made in standard sizes S / M / L and XL, with XS available on Minimus, Sigma, Ultra, and Yukon jackets, vests and pullovers as standard, and on certain other items on request. XXL & XXXL are available for certain items on request, and so are simple modifications between sizes (e.g. Medium width combined with Large length). Please contact us for details.

Allowances:

  • Down Jackets, Pullovers, Vests, Down Suits: sized to fit over thermal underwear & fleece.
  • Down Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or climbing trousers.
  • Shell Jackets: sized to go over a down jacket (e.g. Yukon Jacket). To cover thicker down clothing go up one size; to cover base layer & fleece clothing, go down one size.
  • Shell Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or outdoor trousers.
  • Shell Suits: D-type suits will fit over down clothing of the same named size; F-type suits will only fit over thermals and fleece.

Reviews

"Perhaps the best belay jacket on the market ... close to perfect in weight, bulk and features ... a lot of top climbers bought the jacket, even though many were sponsored by other companies."
Andy Kirkpatrick.

"I must say what a great bit of kit it is too, either inside or over the top of my wind suit while waiting on the belay (as we did for one session of 2 hours at 5700m+) it proved to be a winner every time - I'd recommend it any time."
Paul Collin (attempt on Chek-igo, Nepal).

"I ordered a ... Zeta Belay Jacket off you guys middle of last year. I used [it] on Cho Oyu and [it] worked fantastically ... I did put the gear through a thorough test and am totally happy with the way [it] performed."
Ben Kane, Guide, Field Touring Alpine.

"My Mt. Rainier climb was a great success and your jacket was perfect."
John J. Fernandez.

"I have used PHD clothing in the Alps and Caucasus and I have grown to trust the performance and the quality that they offer. The Zeta belay jacket especially has been a life saver a couple of times!"
Robert Gatt, team member Challenge 8000.

"My Zeta Belay Jacket is great insurance for damp times on the Polar ice."
Adrian McCallum, Scott Polar Research Institute.

"A brilliant jacket."
Nick R.

"I couldn't think of a better jacket for Scottish Winter, avoid the worry over down getting wet and get a synthetic like this. It has obviously had lots of thought into the design as everything seems to be perfectly suited to climbing."
Steve Sharland on Outdoorsmagic Forum.

"I have a PHD Zeta. I like it. It seems to have all the right things in all the right places, and it's jolly cosy. I like the handwarmer pockets."
M.W.

"My first PHD product and I'm extremely impressed, just throw it on at stance or when stopped on the hill, over everything wet or dry. Great. Has a rugged feel to it compared to down which I always find very fragile."
J.M.

More...

Features

  • Primaloft Gold® synthetic insulation (200grm/m in the body & 133grm/m sleeves)
  • Waterproof / Breathable HS2 outer fabric*
  • Breathable ripstop superlight MX inner fabric
  • Integral hood with wired peak, sized for a modern climber's helmet
  • Shoulder seams taped*****
  • Front closure: short zip + baffle with wide easy-hit Velcro
  • Insulated storm baffle with stud at bottom
  • 4 pockets
    • 2 zipped handwarmer pockets above harness level
    • 1 internal zipped security pocket with key hook
    • 1 internal zipped poacher's pocket for mitts
  • Reflector tape on front and back for night location
  • Clip loop to secure jacket at change-overs
  • Double exit adjustable hem cord
  • Side Stitched for maximum loft
  • Cuffs; simple Velcro closure
  • Beard flap
  • Stuff sac
  • Pack size 17 x 28cm**

 

*Please note: Please note: although the outer fabric is waterproof, only the shoulder stitch lines are taped. So, although the outer will shed a lot of rain and snow, in a heavy downpour water can penetrate the stitching. However, the Primaloft insulation retains much of its insulation if wet. As always in the mountains, if there is a possibility of prolonged rain, carry full specification waterproofs.

**Please note: We make our stuff sacs big enough to allow fairly easy stuffing rather than reducing the jacket to the tightest minimum.

Description

The new Zeta Jacket is better and warmer than ever. Integral hood, more accessible pockets, and the soft warmth of Primaloft Gold®. But the original wide cut and user-friendly features are still there, marking it out as one of the only true mountain belay jackets available. For Alpine winter routes, Patagonia, Alaska, make no mistake, this is the jacket you want with you when conditions get rough.

With thick 200grm/m Primaloft Gold® insulation, this jacket gives reassuring protection in shocking conditions. In our experience Primaloft Gold® absorbs water much more slowly than other waddings, a marked advantage in wet-cold conditions. The Zeta belay can be worn all day over a fleece layer or equally be used over a hardshell jacket. The Zeta Belay Jacket could be used to provide additional warmth between cold belays by swapping between climbers at pitch change-overs.

The Alpha is a lighter version of this jacket, for temperatures around -10°C.

Please note: this jacket is designed and sized to be worn over top / outer layers. It provides additional warmth on cold belays and, typically, is swapped between climbers at pitch change-overs.

As used by Ian Parnell and Andy Kirkpatrick.

Technical

Superlight MX fabric (weight: 32 gsm)

A mini-ripstop nylon with excellent tear strength, MX is the pick of the superfine 15 denier downproof materials. We have tested lighter fabrics, but most have had significant drawbacks, while our confidence in MX is based on several years of extensive use in both our ultralight and our high mountain gear. Order samples of this fabric & just pay the postage.

Primaloft Gold®

Primaloft Gold® is the ideal microfibre insulation. Ultrafine fibres produce an insulating core that is incredibly soft, lightweight and water resistant. In our experience it absorbs water much more slowly than other waddings, a marked advantage in wet-cold conditions.

The nearest of the synthetics to the feel of down, yet tougher than you would expect. Primaloft Gold® offers the best warmth/weight performance in the Primaloft range

Waterproof HS2 outer fabric (weight: 88 gsm)

HS2 is PHD's high-spec 2-layer ripstop for waterproof outers on our down. It is light enough to be the optional taped shell on our sleeping bags and tough enough for expedition use in our Omega clothing. HS2 is completely waterproof (when the seams are taped) and offers excellent breathability. Order samples of this fabric & just pay the postage.

Sizing

Standard clothing sizing chart

Weight shown is for medium (M) size.

The PHD Sizing Chart below is based on measurements without clothing, exactly the way you would buy a shirt, a sweater or a pair of trousers. A 42" (107cm) chest means that your bare chest uninflated measures 42". Inside Arm is measured from armpit to wrist-bone and Inside Leg from crutch to ankle bone. If you find that you fall between (or across) these sizings, please contact us and we will quote you for modifications needed. Modifications cannot be made to sale items, bargain box items or other products not offered at full price. And if you are supplying us with your measurements, it is always useful for us to know your height, even when you are only buying a jacket.

Size Height Chest Waist Inside arm Inside leg
XS 155-163cm
(5'1"–5'4")
86cm
(34")
71cm
(28")
46cm
(18")
69cm
(27")
S 164-170cm
(5'5"–5'7")
91cm
(36")
76cm
(30")
48cm
(19")
72cm
(28.5")
M 171-178cm
(5'7"–5'10")
99cm
(39")
84cm
(33")
51cm
(20")
76cm
(30")
L 179-186cm
(5'10"–6'1")
107cm
(42")
91cm
(36")
53cm
(21")
80cm
(31.5")
XL 187-193cm
(6'2"–6'4")
114cm
(45")
99cm
(39")
56cm
(22")
84cm
(33")
XXL 194-201cm
(6'4"–6'7")
122cm
(48")
107cm
(42")
58cm
(23")
88cm
(34.5")
XXXL 202-209cm
(6'8"–6'10")
130cm
(51")
114cm
(45")
61cm
(24")
91cm
(36")

N.B. PHD clothing is unisex and made in standard sizes S / M / L and XL, with XS available on Minimus, Sigma, Ultra, and Yukon jackets, vests and pullovers as standard, and on certain other items on request. XXL & XXXL are available for certain items on request, and so are simple modifications between sizes (e.g. Medium width combined with Large length). Please contact us for details.

Allowances:

  • Down Jackets, Pullovers, Vests, Down Suits: sized to fit over thermal underwear & fleece.
  • Down Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or climbing trousers.
  • Shell Jackets: sized to go over a down jacket (e.g. Yukon Jacket). To cover thicker down clothing go up one size; to cover base layer & fleece clothing, go down one size.
  • Shell Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or outdoor trousers.
  • Shell Suits: D-type suits will fit over down clothing of the same named size; F-type suits will only fit over thermals and fleece.

Reviews

"Perhaps the best belay jacket on the market ... close to perfect in weight, bulk and features ... a lot of top climbers bought the jacket, even though many were sponsored by other companies."
Andy Kirkpatrick.

"I must say what a great bit of kit it is too, either inside or over the top of my wind suit while waiting on the belay (as we did for one session of 2 hours at 5700m+) it proved to be a winner every time - I'd recommend it any time."
Paul Collin (attempt on Chek-igo, Nepal).

"I ordered a ... Zeta Belay Jacket off you guys middle of last year. I used [it] on Cho Oyu and [it] worked fantastically ... I did put the gear through a thorough test and am totally happy with the way [it] performed."
Ben Kane, Guide, Field Touring Alpine.

"My Mt. Rainier climb was a great success and your jacket was perfect."
John J. Fernandez.

"I have used PHD clothing in the Alps and Caucasus and I have grown to trust the performance and the quality that they offer. The Zeta belay jacket especially has been a life saver a couple of times!"
Robert Gatt, team member Challenge 8000.

"My Zeta Belay Jacket is great insurance for damp times on the Polar ice."
Adrian McCallum, Scott Polar Research Institute.

"A brilliant jacket."
Nick R.

"I couldn't think of a better jacket for Scottish Winter, avoid the worry over down getting wet and get a synthetic like this. It has obviously had lots of thought into the design as everything seems to be perfectly suited to climbing."
Steve Sharland on Outdoorsmagic Forum.

"I have a PHD Zeta. I like it. It seems to have all the right things in all the right places, and it's jolly cosy. I like the handwarmer pockets."
M.W.

"My first PHD product and I'm extremely impressed, just throw it on at stance or when stopped on the hill, over everything wet or dry. Great. Has a rugged feel to it compared to down which I always find very fragile."
J.M.

More...

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