Expedition Double Suit (-35°C)
— Ben Kane using the PHD Expedition Double Suit on Manaslu (8,163m)
Features
Inner Suit
Weight: 550g (19oz)
Typical Operating Temperature: Inner alone: -10°C (14°F)
Features:
- Ultra-light one-piece inner suit
- Colour: White, to reduce solar gain
- Lightweight M1 inner and outer fabric
- Rare 950 fillpower European pure goose down
- Front closure: Two way zip with under baffle
- Beard guard
- Elasticated waist for close fit
- Pit zips for maximum venting
- Hand warmer heat-pad pockets inside the sleeve
- Lycra cuffs
- Toilet access: Rainbow zip. Alternative option - Under and Up
- Four pockets:
- Two outer cargo pockets (one insulated for camera etc)
- Two inside twin water-bottle pockets with elasticated entry (to hold 4 x 500ml Nalgene bottles)
- Hood:
- Zip on with adjustable front velcro closure
- Lycra edged for simplicity
- Rear volume reducer
- Reflect tape on the pockets and back for night location
- Zip pulls for easy operation in mitts
- Stuff Sac
- Pack Size: 17 x 28cm
- Options:
- 'Under and Up' zip as alternative Toilet access
- Zip-on or sewn-on hood
Outer 2-piece Suit
Weight: Jacket 450g (16oz). Trousers 300g (11oz)
Common Features:
- Ultralight two-piece outer suit (jacket and trousers)
- Sized to allow full loft of the inner suit
- Allows access to climber's harness
- Clip loops for lanyards (e.g. Jumars)
- Water-resistant Ultrashell outer fabric
- MX inner fabric
- Rare 950 European Pure Goose Down
- Stitch-through construction for lightness
- Colour: Blue
Jacket:
- Front closure: Two-way zip with flared over-baffle (to protect the water drips from an oxygen-mask freezing and locking the zip)
- Lanyard clip loops
- Three pockets
- 2 Large outer cargo pockets
- 1 through pocket to access the inner suit pockets
- Hood:
- Zip-on with adjustable front velcro closure
- Elastic cord adjustment around the face
- Rear volume reducer
- Pit zips for maximum venting
- Adjustable cuffs
- Fleece-lined collar
- Elasticated waist and elasticated inner back for snug fit
- Beard flap
- Shock Cord Hem
- Zip pulls for easy operation in mitts
- Stuff sac
- Pack size 17 x 28cm
- Options:
- Zip-on or sewn-on hood
- Velcro patches on chest to attach mitts for quick in-out usage
Trousers:
- Tie-in slot for access to climber's harness
- Full-length, two-way, side zips with underbaffle for increased insulation
- Toilet access: drop down seat
- Lightweight braces - removable
- Articulated knees
- Fly zip
- Adjustable waist cord
- Stuff sac
- Pack size: 17 x 28cm
Description
Designed to function in extreme cold and at very low oxygen levels, down-filled suits have become standard for high-altitude mountaineering.
However, over the course of a long day, mountaineers can face enormous temperature changes from factors—such as wind speed and cloud cover—completely beyond their control.
Heat-exhaustion and fatigue from dehydration often cause more of a problem than the cold, and a climber’s harness can make things worse, preventing the removal of a single suit.
The PHD Expedition Double Suit solves these very real issues. It is more versatile and much lighter system than single suits, with more comfort and ease of movement.
The Inner suit can be ‘lived in’ from the lower camps to the summit, while the 2-piece Outer suit is easy to put on for the summit push or whenever conditions require it.
Innovative features like heat-pad pockets at the wrists, a harness tie-in slot, lanyard clip loops and the flared storm baffle all add greater functionality and performance to the system.
The first of its kind in the world, the PHD Expedition Double Suit is a whole new approach to down clothing for high-altitude mountaineering.
Two versions of this suit are available:
- This Standard with a typical operating temperature of: -35°C (-31°F)
- A Warmer version with a typical operating temperature of: -50°C (-58°F) and recommended for for no-oxygen ascents on 8000m peaks
*****
The Starting Point
Our founder, Peter Hutchinson, made the first ever one-piece Down Suit (for Don Whillans on Everest) in 1971. Since then the design has been recognised as the best kit for the highest peaks and copied world-wide. Improvements have been made, but there has been no radical change until the new PHD Double Suit in 2017.
Why?
The sparks that set us thinking about the new Double Suit go back some way. Feedback from Himalayan expeditions ever since the 1990’s raised a number of points which allowed us to improve our high altitude gear. Two questions kept coming back:
- Could we cut down the weight and bulk of our extreme sleeping bags?
- Down suits gave excellent protection, but they were often too hot on the way up to the high camps: could we make them more wearable across a wide range of conditions?
We kept making our suits and sleeping bags lighter and lighter without fully answering either problem, until we decided it was time to think things out from scratch. Only at that stage did we start to realise that these questions were linked.
Sleeping Light: The Easy Bit
Sleeping bags for the high Himalayas have to cope with extreme cold. That’s a definite. But keeping down clothing on at night inside the bag means a much lighter bag can deliver all the warmth needed. It had often been done on an ad hoc basis, so we simply designed the best combinations to work in the most effective way and made it possible to plan expedition night gear in a new way.
After tests at altitude, that came out as our award-winning Sleep Systems in 2016. First question answered.
Daytime: The Hard Bit
How could we make a suit warm enough for the summit that didn’t fry the user on the lower slopes?
A traditional Down Suit has great advantages in protection and simplicity, but once you’ve put it on, you’re in there for the day, maybe the week. The range of temperatures you pass through on a big mountain are enormous. No question you’ll need the suit on your summit push, but on the way up in places like the Western Cwm on Everest you may overheat beyond the point where any ventilation system can cope.
Then we hit on the idea of splitting the traditional single down suit into two. One on top of the other, both extremely light.
The one-piece inner suit for the climb up to 7000 metres where overheating seemed to be a common problem. The two-piece outer a quick overfit to bring the combined double suit up to full summit performance at 8000+ metres.
We had to solve a number of design difficulties and our first tests of the double suits on both sides of Everest were stopped short by the avalanches of 2015. Since then success on two separate 8000m peaks in 2016 confirmed that this really is the way to go. Surprisingly the double suit is lighter and simpler to use than a single and offers a whole new versatility of temperature control, both day and night.
Technical
Toilet Access on Suits
- Under & Up zip: The central front zip on the suit runs from the collar, down the front of the body, past the groin and then under and up to waist level at the back. A two-way zip allows access at any place.
- Rainbow Seat zip: A rainbow / semicircle zip is sewn in across the backside. A two-way zip allows access and creates a drop down flap.
Ultrashell (weight: 40gsm)
The lightest of PHD's coated materials. This ripstop nylon provides complete wind block and good water resistance at minimal weight. Ultrashell gives an excellent upgrade to performance with very little weight penalty.
Lightweight M1 fabric (weight: 39 gsm)
Lightweight silky microfibre. This close-weave 20 denier fabric is fully downproof, but also light and flexible enough to allow the down full loft. A reliable performer that has been the basis for much of our lightweight gear for some time.
Superlight MX fabric (weight: 32 gsm)
A mini-ripstop nylon with excellent tear strength, MX is the pick of the superfine 15 denier downproof materials. We have tested lighter fabrics, but most have had significant drawbacks, while our confidence in MX is based on several years of extensive use in both our ultralight and our high mountain gear.
950 Fillpower Down
A newcomer to our range. European goose of rare quality. A high value alternative at the top levels of performance. More on our down insulation.
Sizing
Standard clothing sizing chart
Weight shown is for medium (M) size.
The PHD Sizing Chart below is based on measurements without clothing, exactly the way you would buy a shirt, a sweater or a pair of trousers. A 42" (107cm) chest means that your bare chest uninflated measures 42". Inside Arm is measured from armpit to wrist-bone and Inside Leg from crutch to ankle bone. If you find that you fall between (or across) these sizings, please contact us and we will quote you for modifications needed. Modifications cannot be made to sale items, bargain box items or other products not offered at full price. And if you are supplying us with your measurements, it is always useful for us to know your height, even when you are only buying a jacket.
| Size | Height | Chest | Waist | Inside arm | Inside leg |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 155-163cm (5'1"–5'4") |
86cm (34") |
71cm (28") |
46cm (18") |
69cm (27") |
| S | 164-170cm (5'5"–5'7") |
91cm (36") |
76cm (30") |
48cm (19") |
72cm (28.5") |
| M | 171-178cm (5'7"–5'10") |
99cm (39") |
84cm (33") |
51cm (20") |
76cm (30") |
| L | 179-186cm (5'10"–6'1") |
107cm (42") |
91cm (36") |
53cm (21") |
80cm (31.5") |
| XL | 187-193cm (6'2"–6'4") |
114cm (45") |
99cm (39") |
56cm (22") |
84cm (33") |
| XXL | 194-201cm (6'4"–6'7") |
122cm (48") |
107cm (42") |
58cm (23") |
88cm (34.5") |
| XXXL | 202-209cm (6'8"–6'10") |
130cm (51") |
114cm (45") |
61cm (24") |
91cm (36") |
N.B. PHD clothing is unisex and made in standard sizes S / M / L and XL, with XS available on Minimus, Sigma, Ultra, and Yukon jackets, vests and pullovers as standard, and on certain other items on request. XXL & XXXL are available for certain items on request, and so are simple modifications between sizes (e.g. Medium width combined with Large length). Please contact us for details.
Allowances:
- Down Jackets, Pullovers, Vests, Down Suits: sized to fit over thermal underwear & fleece.
- Down Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or climbing trousers.
- Shell Jackets: sized to go over a down jacket (e.g. Yukon Jacket). To cover thicker down clothing go up one size; to cover base layer & fleece clothing, go down one size.
- Shell Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or outdoor trousers.
- Shell Suits: D-type suits will fit over down clothing of the same named size; F-type suits will only fit over thermals and fleece.
Reviews
"For a suit that is literally made to measure and is totally fit for purpose then look no further. You get exceptional value for money and it's more versatile than the other suits available. 9.5/10."
[Tim rated the PHD Double Expedition Suit 1st in his review of down suits by PHD, Rab, Mountain Hardwear, North Face, Berghaus, Marmot, and Mountain Equipment.]
—Six times Everest summiteer and expedition guide, Tim Mosedale (read full review)
"The double suit performed extremely well again on Dhaulagiri this Autumn. When we climbed from Camp 1 (5700m) to Camp 2 (6650m), I was the only climber to be comfortable in the conditions all day. I climbed in the inner suit and base layer all day, only having to vent the pit zips from time to time. The others started in down suits and two-pieces, having to stop, remove harness and crampons etc, some climbing in down salopettes without jackets. It was another reaffirming moment that the design really does work.
A faulty head torch on the summit push left me stranded without supplemental oxygen at 7600m from 2am to 5am waiting for the sun to come up. I'm not the warmest person and I managed to stay warm enough, which shows how effective the full combo suit is.
Keep up the great work."
—Ben Kane using the PHD Expedition Double Suit on Dhaulagiri
"On the summit, I was ample warm with just the inner suit and came down MUCH MORE comfortable than anyone else. Overheating was a major factor for my teammates - so much so that one almost didn't get down due to a combination of fatigue and heat-exhaustion. I was chipper on the other hand.
The beauty of the inner suit system was its softness and flexibility which allowed me to move a lot more freely than in a more conventional, bulkier suit."
—
Rob Casserley using the PHD Expedition Double Suit on Cho Oyu (8,188m)
"What I find most impressive is adaptability of the system. The inner suit is a 'live in' piece of gear, ideally for use above 6500m, up to over 7500m, possibly higher. Once I put it on, I didn't need to take it off until the descent to Base Camp. What I really like is this allows you to wear the suit over base and mid-layers and leave shell layers at lower camps. On average this will save around 1kg of weight.
Traditional down suits have been worn only from the higher camps up to the summit. In warm conditions the climber is either uncomfortable or takes the suit off and carries it in on their back. This system allows you to utilise the insulation you are carrying lower down, climb through greater temperature ranges and generally be more comfortable and adaptable to changing weather.
Overall, the materials used are on the cutting edge of design for high altitude gear, the build quaility is exceptional and the design concept of a double suit is functional and practical.
—
Ben Kane using the PHD Expedition Double Suit on Manaslu (8,163m)
Features
Inner Suit
Weight: 550g (19oz)
Typical Operating Temperature: Inner alone: -10°C (14°F)
Features:
- Ultra-light one-piece inner suit
- Colour: White, to reduce solar gain
- Lightweight M1 inner and outer fabric
- Rare 950 fillpower European pure goose down
- Front closure: Two way zip with under baffle
- Beard guard
- Elasticated waist for close fit
- Pit zips for maximum venting
- Hand warmer heat-pad pockets inside the sleeve
- Lycra cuffs
- Toilet access: Rainbow zip. Alternative option - Under and Up
- Four pockets:
- Two outer cargo pockets (one insulated for camera etc)
- Two inside twin water-bottle pockets with elasticated entry (to hold 4 x 500ml Nalgene bottles)
- Hood:
- Zip on with adjustable front velcro closure
- Lycra edged for simplicity
- Rear volume reducer
- Reflect tape on the pockets and back for night location
- Zip pulls for easy operation in mitts
- Stuff Sac
- Pack Size: 17 x 28cm
- Options:
- 'Under and Up' zip as alternative Toilet access
- Zip-on or sewn-on hood
Outer 2-piece Suit
Weight: Jacket 450g (16oz). Trousers 300g (11oz)
Common Features:
- Ultralight two-piece outer suit (jacket and trousers)
- Sized to allow full loft of the inner suit
- Allows access to climber's harness
- Clip loops for lanyards (e.g. Jumars)
- Water-resistant Ultrashell outer fabric
- MX inner fabric
- Rare 950 European Pure Goose Down
- Stitch-through construction for lightness
- Colour: Blue
Jacket:
- Front closure: Two-way zip with flared over-baffle (to protect the water drips from an oxygen-mask freezing and locking the zip)
- Lanyard clip loops
- Three pockets
- 2 Large outer cargo pockets
- 1 through pocket to access the inner suit pockets
- Hood:
- Zip-on with adjustable front velcro closure
- Elastic cord adjustment around the face
- Rear volume reducer
- Pit zips for maximum venting
- Adjustable cuffs
- Fleece-lined collar
- Elasticated waist and elasticated inner back for snug fit
- Beard flap
- Shock Cord Hem
- Zip pulls for easy operation in mitts
- Stuff sac
- Pack size 17 x 28cm
- Options:
- Zip-on or sewn-on hood
- Velcro patches on chest to attach mitts for quick in-out usage
Trousers:
- Tie-in slot for access to climber's harness
- Full-length, two-way, side zips with underbaffle for increased insulation
- Toilet access: drop down seat
- Lightweight braces - removable
- Articulated knees
- Fly zip
- Adjustable waist cord
- Stuff sac
- Pack size: 17 x 28cm
Description
Designed to function in extreme cold and at very low oxygen levels, down-filled suits have become standard for high-altitude mountaineering.
However, over the course of a long day, mountaineers can face enormous temperature changes from factors—such as wind speed and cloud cover—completely beyond their control.
Heat-exhaustion and fatigue from dehydration often cause more of a problem than the cold, and a climber’s harness can make things worse, preventing the removal of a single suit.
The PHD Expedition Double Suit solves these very real issues. It is more versatile and much lighter system than single suits, with more comfort and ease of movement.
The Inner suit can be ‘lived in’ from the lower camps to the summit, while the 2-piece Outer suit is easy to put on for the summit push or whenever conditions require it.
Innovative features like heat-pad pockets at the wrists, a harness tie-in slot, lanyard clip loops and the flared storm baffle all add greater functionality and performance to the system.
The first of its kind in the world, the PHD Expedition Double Suit is a whole new approach to down clothing for high-altitude mountaineering.
Two versions of this suit are available:
- This Standard with a typical operating temperature of: -35°C (-31°F)
- A Warmer version with a typical operating temperature of: -50°C (-58°F) and recommended for for no-oxygen ascents on 8000m peaks
*****
The Starting Point
Our founder, Peter Hutchinson, made the first ever one-piece Down Suit (for Don Whillans on Everest) in 1971. Since then the design has been recognised as the best kit for the highest peaks and copied world-wide. Improvements have been made, but there has been no radical change until the new PHD Double Suit in 2017.
Why?
The sparks that set us thinking about the new Double Suit go back some way. Feedback from Himalayan expeditions ever since the 1990’s raised a number of points which allowed us to improve our high altitude gear. Two questions kept coming back:
- Could we cut down the weight and bulk of our extreme sleeping bags?
- Down suits gave excellent protection, but they were often too hot on the way up to the high camps: could we make them more wearable across a wide range of conditions?
We kept making our suits and sleeping bags lighter and lighter without fully answering either problem, until we decided it was time to think things out from scratch. Only at that stage did we start to realise that these questions were linked.
Sleeping Light: The Easy Bit
Sleeping bags for the high Himalayas have to cope with extreme cold. That’s a definite. But keeping down clothing on at night inside the bag means a much lighter bag can deliver all the warmth needed. It had often been done on an ad hoc basis, so we simply designed the best combinations to work in the most effective way and made it possible to plan expedition night gear in a new way.
After tests at altitude, that came out as our award-winning Sleep Systems in 2016. First question answered.
Daytime: The Hard Bit
How could we make a suit warm enough for the summit that didn’t fry the user on the lower slopes?
A traditional Down Suit has great advantages in protection and simplicity, but once you’ve put it on, you’re in there for the day, maybe the week. The range of temperatures you pass through on a big mountain are enormous. No question you’ll need the suit on your summit push, but on the way up in places like the Western Cwm on Everest you may overheat beyond the point where any ventilation system can cope.
Then we hit on the idea of splitting the traditional single down suit into two. One on top of the other, both extremely light.
The one-piece inner suit for the climb up to 7000 metres where overheating seemed to be a common problem. The two-piece outer a quick overfit to bring the combined double suit up to full summit performance at 8000+ metres.
We had to solve a number of design difficulties and our first tests of the double suits on both sides of Everest were stopped short by the avalanches of 2015. Since then success on two separate 8000m peaks in 2016 confirmed that this really is the way to go. Surprisingly the double suit is lighter and simpler to use than a single and offers a whole new versatility of temperature control, both day and night.
Technical
Toilet Access on Suits
- Under & Up zip: The central front zip on the suit runs from the collar, down the front of the body, past the groin and then under and up to waist level at the back. A two-way zip allows access at any place.
- Rainbow Seat zip: A rainbow / semicircle zip is sewn in across the backside. A two-way zip allows access and creates a drop down flap.
Ultrashell (weight: 40gsm)
The lightest of PHD's coated materials. This ripstop nylon provides complete wind block and good water resistance at minimal weight. Ultrashell gives an excellent upgrade to performance with very little weight penalty.
Lightweight M1 fabric (weight: 39 gsm)
Lightweight silky microfibre. This close-weave 20 denier fabric is fully downproof, but also light and flexible enough to allow the down full loft. A reliable performer that has been the basis for much of our lightweight gear for some time.
Superlight MX fabric (weight: 32 gsm)
A mini-ripstop nylon with excellent tear strength, MX is the pick of the superfine 15 denier downproof materials. We have tested lighter fabrics, but most have had significant drawbacks, while our confidence in MX is based on several years of extensive use in both our ultralight and our high mountain gear.
950 Fillpower Down
A newcomer to our range. European goose of rare quality. A high value alternative at the top levels of performance. More on our down insulation.
Sizing
Standard clothing sizing chart
Weight shown is for medium (M) size.
The PHD Sizing Chart below is based on measurements without clothing, exactly the way you would buy a shirt, a sweater or a pair of trousers. A 42" (107cm) chest means that your bare chest uninflated measures 42". Inside Arm is measured from armpit to wrist-bone and Inside Leg from crutch to ankle bone. If you find that you fall between (or across) these sizings, please contact us and we will quote you for modifications needed. Modifications cannot be made to sale items, bargain box items or other products not offered at full price. And if you are supplying us with your measurements, it is always useful for us to know your height, even when you are only buying a jacket.
| Size | Height | Chest | Waist | Inside arm | Inside leg |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 155-163cm (5'1"–5'4") |
86cm (34") |
71cm (28") |
46cm (18") |
69cm (27") |
| S | 164-170cm (5'5"–5'7") |
91cm (36") |
76cm (30") |
48cm (19") |
72cm (28.5") |
| M | 171-178cm (5'7"–5'10") |
99cm (39") |
84cm (33") |
51cm (20") |
76cm (30") |
| L | 179-186cm (5'10"–6'1") |
107cm (42") |
91cm (36") |
53cm (21") |
80cm (31.5") |
| XL | 187-193cm (6'2"–6'4") |
114cm (45") |
99cm (39") |
56cm (22") |
84cm (33") |
| XXL | 194-201cm (6'4"–6'7") |
122cm (48") |
107cm (42") |
58cm (23") |
88cm (34.5") |
| XXXL | 202-209cm (6'8"–6'10") |
130cm (51") |
114cm (45") |
61cm (24") |
91cm (36") |
N.B. PHD clothing is unisex and made in standard sizes S / M / L and XL, with XS available on Minimus, Sigma, Ultra, and Yukon jackets, vests and pullovers as standard, and on certain other items on request. XXL & XXXL are available for certain items on request, and so are simple modifications between sizes (e.g. Medium width combined with Large length). Please contact us for details.
Allowances:
- Down Jackets, Pullovers, Vests, Down Suits: sized to fit over thermal underwear & fleece.
- Down Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or climbing trousers.
- Shell Jackets: sized to go over a down jacket (e.g. Yukon Jacket). To cover thicker down clothing go up one size; to cover base layer & fleece clothing, go down one size.
- Shell Trousers & Salopettes: sized to fit over thermal underwear &/or outdoor trousers.
- Shell Suits: D-type suits will fit over down clothing of the same named size; F-type suits will only fit over thermals and fleece.
Reviews
"For a suit that is literally made to measure and is totally fit for purpose then look no further. You get exceptional value for money and it's more versatile than the other suits available. 9.5/10."
[Tim rated the PHD Double Expedition Suit 1st in his review of down suits by PHD, Rab, Mountain Hardwear, North Face, Berghaus, Marmot, and Mountain Equipment.]
—Six times Everest summiteer and expedition guide, Tim Mosedale (read full review)
"The double suit performed extremely well again on Dhaulagiri this Autumn. When we climbed from Camp 1 (5700m) to Camp 2 (6650m), I was the only climber to be comfortable in the conditions all day. I climbed in the inner suit and base layer all day, only having to vent the pit zips from time to time. The others started in down suits and two-pieces, having to stop, remove harness and crampons etc, some climbing in down salopettes without jackets. It was another reaffirming moment that the design really does work.
A faulty head torch on the summit push left me stranded without supplemental oxygen at 7600m from 2am to 5am waiting for the sun to come up. I'm not the warmest person and I managed to stay warm enough, which shows how effective the full combo suit is.
Keep up the great work."
—Ben Kane using the PHD Expedition Double Suit on Dhaulagiri
"On the summit, I was ample warm with just the inner suit and came down MUCH MORE comfortable than anyone else. Overheating was a major factor for my teammates - so much so that one almost didn't get down due to a combination of fatigue and heat-exhaustion. I was chipper on the other hand.
The beauty of the inner suit system was its softness and flexibility which allowed me to move a lot more freely than in a more conventional, bulkier suit."
—
Rob Casserley using the PHD Expedition Double Suit on Cho Oyu (8,188m)
"What I find most impressive is adaptability of the system. The inner suit is a 'live in' piece of gear, ideally for use above 6500m, up to over 7500m, possibly higher. Once I put it on, I didn't need to take it off until the descent to Base Camp. What I really like is this allows you to wear the suit over base and mid-layers and leave shell layers at lower camps. On average this will save around 1kg of weight.
Traditional down suits have been worn only from the higher camps up to the summit. In warm conditions the climber is either uncomfortable or takes the suit off and carries it in on their back. This system allows you to utilise the insulation you are carrying lower down, climb through greater temperature ranges and generally be more comfortable and adaptable to changing weather.
Overall, the materials used are on the cutting edge of design for high altitude gear, the build quaility is exceptional and the design concept of a double suit is functional and practical.
—
Ben Kane using the PHD Expedition Double Suit on Manaslu (8,163m)
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